Bia Hoi with Bun Cha

In the summers of 1948, the French colonial rulers were desperate to remain relevant in Indo-China. Japanese attacks during the world war and the pillage that followed by the Chinese army had left the ever infallible French, vulnerable and exposed to a disillusioned Annamese populace they had ruled and coexisted with for almost 2 centuries. As Ho Chi Minh's forces gained popularity and strength, the streets of Ha Noi and pristine waters of Ha Long Bay bore witness to uncharacteristic political folly and drama. It was in old quarter of Ha Noi, where the seeds of a thirty year long war would be sown, leaving millions dead, three of the world's strongest military and political powers (US, Japan & France) humbled and perhaps change forever the course of a nation.

Dance practice by the lake-side

Street food livens up the old-quarter at night

The lake in the center of modern day old quarter sparkles with lines of lantern-like colorful lights that surround it. Swanky cars and a million bikes parked all around the boulevard by the lake, bring people from all parts of the city to relax awhile by the banks. Hawkers line the streets selling everything from t-shirts reading "i-pho" (a play on the iconic communication device and the "pho" rice noodle soup, staple in Vietnam) to the surprisingly popular chihuahuas. Vendors clamoring for business offer delicacies like Pho, brilliant stuffed omelettes and Bun Cha (Bar-be-que pork) and freshly brewed teas. Families jostle for spots on the scores of small plastic stools that line the lake-side. The rich exotic smell of fresh food plays the perfect backdrop for laughter and joy it inspires. A puny toddler learns to take his first steps while his family looks on with excitement. In the center of the lake a pagoda scintillates, washed in bright red and golden light. On the far side a bunch of men and women of all ages put out a stereo on the road and start practicing their dance moves. Evening walkers jog along, dragged behind their chihuahuas, paying no heed to such drama unfolding all around them. Ha Noi is still very much the center of a change in course of a nation.





I first thought of coming to Vietnam in 2008 when a friend casually mentioned a road-trip across Indo-China. For a country that is surprisingly close to India (direct flying time is a little more than flying from Mumbai to Guwahati), Vietnam is a great example of how popular culture distorts our worldview. Vietnam's imagery in the world is perhaps governed by American cinema. And how incredibly off it is from the realities of the street. 


Getting to Vietnam from Mumbai:

Direct:              No direct flights exist between Ha Noi / Ho Chi Minh City and Mumbai. Jet Airways and Vietnam Airlines run code share flights via Bangkok with Luggage Transfer and removing the need for a Thai Visa. (~Rs. 34,000, 3-4 months in advance for 2013)

Cheapest:         You can make substantial savings by taking an alternate route, especially if Bangkok is part of your itinerary.  The options would be taking either of Cathay Pacific (Select days of the week, most comfortable), Jet Airways (Advance Purchase Fares) or Indigo (generally the cheapest) from Mumbai to Bangkok with a connecting from Don Mueng Airport on Air Asia to Ha Noi / Ho Chi Minh City. Based on dates the trip would cost you around Rs. 20,000 (Cheapest including Thai Visa). Air Asia also allows open jaw tickets allowing you to fly into HCM City and out from Ha Noi or vice versa.

Fastest:            Thai Airways connection takes 8 hrs onwards and 12 hrs while returning including the layover

Vietnam Visa:

The visa to Vietnam could be obtained from any of the multiple websites offering the service. A simple Google search should serve the purpose. We did our visas through vietnamvisapro@gmail.com . It is a lot more convenient and time-saving than obtaining the Visa through the embassy which seems long drawn and difficult.

Stay:

Both Ha Noi and HCM City offer options for all pockets. However our serious recommendation would be to stay in the old quarter in Ha Noi. The charm of relaxed evenings and bustling markets would sweep you off your feet.

Stay Safe:

Purse-snatching and petty thefts, specifically by motorcyclists seemed to be a problem. We witnessed one incident during our stay also. Simple vigilance and being aware of your surroundings should help you stay safe.

Ha Long Bay Trip:

While multiple websites exist, a trip to Ha Long Bay is best booked directly at one of the many agents in Ha Noi or from your hotel. A reasonable overnight trip on a clean boat with decent food should cost you between USD 80-100 per person. You could also choose from options of day-trip or a two-nights trip. We noticed that people on a two-night trip were asked to change boats on day two as each boat stays in the bay for only one day. This may have been an exception. Some boats offer family rooms accommodating 3-4 people as well. This option is not available through most websites.

The small nuisances:

Bear in mind that the boat would only be 60% of what is promised in the brochures. Instead of being disappointed at what you finally get, simply account for it when you make your purchase decision. The journey to and fro Hai-phong or Ha Long town is part of the package. The small bus would make a scheduled stop at one of the many arts vendors where you would be put through a “forced-guided” tour of the massive shop.